June 25, 2007

Collard Greens w/ Red Beans Thoran


A vegetable item is a must on my lunch and dinner table. Sounds uncharacteristic coming from a seemingly non-veg oriented blog right?:)But it's true..a meal with just multiple non-veg items makes me uncomfortable and yearn for something green and crunchy for balance. Not potatoes or veg curries, plain old vegetables.

My mom was relating stories of olden days in her mom's house where vegetable were always present, not just as thorans but in exotic combinations with specific menus. Some were kaya-payar mezhukuparatti(plantains with string beans), padavalange-parippu(snake gourd with lentils), spicy okra thottukootan, cheera thoran,muringya ela thoran(leaves of the drumstick plant) payar ela thoran(leaves of the string beans)etc. Of course, we are not as stringent with the combinations now, happily adapting to the local produce instead.

So recently when I tasted a combination of collard greens and vanpayar(red beans), brought home by my better half from a mallu restaurant (more like a thattukada or dhaba)near his office here, it was intriguing. An American vegetable converted into such a mallu taste! So I had to try and recreate it at home.

Collard greens is slightly bitter and rough leaf, local to the US market, available in plenty here. The central stem needs to be removed, it takes longer to cook, and has a pronounced rough texture. As a thoran(stirfry), it is acceptable as the addition of coconut and garlic renders it different but the addition of the beans gave it a pleasing texture. I have tried both red beans and black eyed beans and though both are good, red beans being smaller is better. This can be tried with any green that is made into a thoran, such as kale, Swiss chard, cheera etc but vary the cooking time accordingly.

You will need:
1/2 bunch of Collard Greens
Red Beans(vanpayar)-1/4 cup
Shallots- 2 sliced
Whole Dried Red Chilies-1 or 2
Green chilies- 4 or 5 chopped
Turmeric- 1/4 tsp
Garlic- 2 cloves
Coconut- 1/4 cup.
Salt to taste
Oil- 1 tbsp

Preparation:
1. Soak the greens in lots of water for 5-10 minutes to get rid of the sand. Wash it well under running water. Let it drain thoroughly. Optional, mop up excess water with paper towels. Remove the central thick stem and chop the leaves finely.
2. Cook the red beans with double the water and 1/2 tsp salt in a pressure cooker for 1-2 whistles. It should be just cooked and not over cooked and smashed. (Use your judgement on how much time it would take in a cooker.)
3. Pulse the coconut, chilies and garlic together without water in a dry grinder till it looks scrambled.
4. Heat the oil in a pan and add the shallots and red chilies torn into pieces. Fry till the shallots turns translucent and then add the greens, salt and turmeric. Keep the pan covered on low heat for about 10 minutes to cook the collard greens. They take longer to cook than regular greens so check the pan after 5 minutes and add water by spoonfuls if needed.
5. Open and cook uncovered on medium flame for 5-7 minutes till all the water evaporates. Make a well in the middle of the leaves and add the coconut mix and the cooked beans. Mix thoroughly and adjust salt. Serve with rice.

June 20, 2007

Kadukka Nirachathu (Arikadukka) /Stuffed Mussels

So most of you familiar with Malabar cuisine have already guessed correctly what the kadukka or kallumakai or mussels ended up as..It is Kadukka Nirachathu or Arikadukka as some call it is a very popular snack in the Malabar region.

Arikadukka are Mussels stuffed with a mixture of ground raw rice paste, shallots and spices and then steamed and fried with the shell on. This is a much sought after item on the "salkaram"(party) as well as Ramadan menu. Some separate the mussels after steaming and then dip then in a batter of rice flour and spices and then fry then but we prefer to fry the mussels with the shell intact. It adds to the fun of peeling and eating them as if they were pistas or groundnuts and inhibits the wary guests.
These beauties are from Kerala..

The name itself conjures up the image of large batches of the delicacy being made by my mom and my aunts all sitting in the open kitchen facing the backyard. from making the filling to cleaning the mussels to frying then, this is definitely a group activity made easier by all the gossip and laughter that flies around.
Mostly made at home, I think it is now available in some speciality restaurants such as Zains in Calicut. (This time, my parents got some Kadukka nirachathu all the way from home and they served as a much needed shot of nostalgic taste.)

Kadukka or mussels are easily available in Northern Kerala and is used in a multitude of recipes...curries with plantains, mangoes, fried, and made into spicy gravies. But the taste and texture of mussels is showcased wonderfully best in this delicacy. In Kozhikode, we get our yummy kadukkas from south beach (near Thangals Road..Rs.60 for 100) but recently my folks say the best kadukkas are from Telicherry coast. Since tasting that is now left for my next visit home, I stand by the Kozhikode ones for now.
The mussels should not be too small or too big and should be raw and fresh, not frozen and not refrigerated. The ones you get in Kerala are long and narrow with blue green shell, while the ones here are a little short and squarish. I have made it with the ones available here too, but they are not as meaty and their shells are very delicate. Still the rice filling gives it its distinctive taste and its good.

A bit of warning..
The following post contains graphic images not suited to vegetarians and those weak of heart. For the true followers, its not easy to explain the method without graphics so if any of you are put off by the sight of mussels, just bear with me.
Also, if you don't have to guts to play with raw mussels, don't attempt to make this. Though fish makes me queasy, I have no qualms about mussels and the anticipation of the yummy snack makes it all worthwhile. And last but not the least, the process is a labour of love and requires at least an hour of your valuable time and concentration. If you have company to help you, all the better.
Don't attempt this on a day when you are out to prove a point or spoiling for a fight.:) It is bound to go wrong then. And use only parboiled rice, not basmati or any rice you find at home. It will not solidify and will be sticky inside and would absorb a lot of oil while frying.


When made properly, the kadukka can be removed completely from the shell and served.

The first recipe is using rice flour instead of ground rice, keeping the difficulty of grinding rice in mind. Use coarse rice flour, such as Puttu Podi.

You Will Need:

Mussels(Kadukka)- about 20-25
Coarse Rice Flour-2 cups
Water-1 1/2 cup
Coconut-1 cup grated
Red Shallots(Chuvanna Ulli)-8-10
Onion-1 medium sized one
Fennel Seeds(Perunjeerakam)-1 tablespoon
Green Hot Chilies-8
Curry leaves-one sprig
Turmeric- 1/2 tsp
Red Chili Powder-1/2 tsp
Salt to taste
Oil for frying

Preparation:
1. Wash the raw mussels properly under running water, scrubbing the surface completely clean. Allow it to drain in a colander. If they are already open, discard them as they are not good. Ideally, they should open slightly and close again when tapped. Use mussels the same day they are bought. Do not refrigerate or freeze and then use them as it changes the taste.
2. Prepare the dough: Grind the coconut, fennel seeds, shallots, green chilies to a coarse paste without adding any water. Boil the water (use exact measurements as specified) with 1/2 tsp salt or to taste. When it comes to a rolling boil, add the rice flour and stir with a long handle of a spoon. (The rice flour should be grainy to approximate the texture of ground raw rice.) Switch off the flame and after stirring completely, cover and let it cool for at least 10 minutes. Open and add the ground mixture and turmeric and red chili powder, chopped curry leaves. Spread into a mixing plate and knead into a grainy but not too dry dough. Add water by spoonfuls if needed to mix well.
3. Chop the onion finely and fry in 1-2 tbsp oil till light brown. Drain the oil and add the onions to the dough and mix thoroughly.
Do not add salt liberally as the shellfish already has sea water and hence is a bit salty to begin with. Add a bit less than what you feel is needed.

4. Open the mussels one by one by sliding a blunt knife in thorough the slits and forcing it open. Once open, it won't close again. Take care not to crack the shell. Try to remove the hairy substance at one corner by pulling it out.

5. Stuff each mussel with the rice filling and shape neatly.

6. Use a steamer or cooker and steam the stuffed mussels for about 30 minutes. They may look soggy when you take them out but they firm up on cooling. You can store them at this stage for a couple of days in the fridge and fry as needed.

These mussels are are from here..

7. Heat enough oil in a cast iron wok (cheenachatti) or deep pan. When the oil is hot, slide in the mussels one by one. Fry them in batches suited to the size of the pan till golden brown. Drain onto paper towels and serve.
If made the previous day, they can be reheated in a microwave for a minute or less.


Traditional Filling:

Parboiled Rice-2 cups soaked in boiling water for at least 3 hours and then drained. Grind the rice to a paste adding all the other ingredients as before(except the fried onions)but without adding water. This is not easy as you need a wide base grinder equipped to handle heavy duty grinding without water. An electric grinder or a Sumeet or Preethi food processor should be fine.
Then add the onions, spices and salt and proceed as above.

June 17, 2007

Cooking in Progress


Since I am on a seafood diet..or rather "see-food" diet (I Eat what I see), here is another seafood recipe coming up. So what do you think these will end up as?
Let me get the looong post ready..so have patience..

June 15, 2007

A Bowl Of Oatmeal....

Oatmeal
While I enjoy coconut rich food which dominates when parents visit, the day still has to start with something filling but with minimum effort. If there is Godumbu Varagiyathu, an oatmeal like concoction that is made with skinned whole wheat and coconut milk ready to eat, that is perfect. Else its oatmeal with dry fruits and milk. Godumbu varagiyathu will be blogged later but for today lets settle for oatmeal. Just prepare it as per instructions with milk, top with chopped walnuts or almonds, dried cranberries, raisins, dates and flax seeds. Drizzle with honey and you are set.

June 12, 2007

Meen Molagu Chaar/ Red Snapper In Red Curry



A real basic and simple curry, made everyday in my house back in Kerala. The taste varies dramatically with the kind of fish used. It is colloquially called Moliyaar, a corruption of "molagu chaar", meaning red chili sauce. Also called "puliyum Molagum" by others (tamarind and red chili curry). Hardly any oil, no coconut and no strong spices. Just a watery sauce made with red chili powder and tamarind which flavors the delicate fish beautifully. It also suits the summer heat with minimal prep work.
This is a curry I don't make often here as it doesn't taste good with fish frozen into a hundred years of sleep on huge slabs of ice. I generally fry the onions and spices to get rid of all excess water and to concentrate the curry.
But my mom is here and its time to break out of the rut. So for the first time, we got a snapping young Red Snapper fish which she identified as a larger version of "Pudiyappila Kora"(Literally translated as Bridegroom Fish) available back home. When we got home, while I was debating whether to fry it or make into yet another masala curry, she had already got the chatti(claypot)out and ready with an assortment for a molaku chaar or red chili curry. I just had enough time to react and reach for the camera, my recipe book and follow her words (That's why the photos are blurry.)
Ever tried following your mom and writing down a recipe while she zips around the kitchen adding hidden ingredients the moment your back is turned? The curry took 15 minutes from beginning to end and tasted good despite the simplicity and US fish.

So here is the recipe but there is a disclaimer. I am not responsible for how this curry turns out in your house (unless you prepare it in front of me and show me the fish). The curry hinges on the freshness of the fish and will not taste good with frozen fish. So how do u know fresh fish? The experts start poking into the skin and eyes but queasy me does neither. If the fish looks firm and doesn't fall apart while washing or cutting, its fine. If you start preparing the curry and the house stinks, its not fresh and you better throw the curry out. A fresh fish curry should smell of the sea and not of the beach.

You will need:
Half of a Snapper-1 lb
Onion- 1/2 medium size, sliced
Green Chilies-8
Ginger-Garlic paste-1 tbsp
Fenugreek seeds-1 tsp
Red Chili Powder-2 tsp(use less as per taste)
Turmeric-1/2 tsp
Tamarind-lime sized ball.
Shallots-2 sliced
Coconut Oil-1-2 Tsp
Salt to taste
Curry leaves, Cilantro -one handful

Preparation:
1.Rinse the fish and drain well. Soak the tamarind ball in 1 cup warm water and extract the pulp.
2. In a clay pot or any sauce pan, mix the onion sliced,green chilies sliced, ginger garlic paste, fenugreek seeds, chili powder, turmeric powder, chopped curry and cilantro leaves, salt and the tamarind water.
3. Cover the clay pot/pan and place on high heat. Let the water in it come to a boil. Simmer for a couple of minutes and then add the fish. Cover and cook on medium heat for about 5-7 minutes. Shake to combine the fish and gravy. Adjust the salt and remove from flame.
4. Heat the coconut oil in a pan and fry the shallots till they turn brown. Pour over the curry. Let the curry sit for at least 10-15 minutes before serving. This goes well with rice on the first day and with anything on the consecutive days.

June 06, 2007

Three Pepper Fajitas



It's always fun to sit back and smile as the guesses pour in just to see the versatality of everybody's imagination. Jackfruit in a fajita..the prize of originality goes to Sra while Nandita came the closest with yellow peppers. Still, thanks for being a sport.

Its a veggie fajita filled with sauted peppers, onions, cilantro, grated cheese and the optional sour cream and gaucamole. Yep, I did make some quesadillas too with the peppers and chicken but that's next on the posting list.

I buy the multicolored bell peppers from the price club on a regular basis just becacuse they look so good and they are so good for you. Every time, I go there the red, yellow and orange peppers just whistle charmingly to me as I walk past them, their colors making them stand out in the midst of all the vegetables. I force my eyes elsewhere, figuring I can go for a couple of weeks without them. But no,at the end of the shopping, there they are in my cart, and I am already conjuring up new ways to cook them.



So how good are they for you?

Brightly colored bell peppers, whether green, red, orange or yellow, are rich sources of vitamin C and vitamin A (through its concentration of carotenoids such as beta-carotene), two very powerful antioxidants. Red Peppers also contain lycopene, a carotenoid which aids the body in warding off cancer. Additionally, they are low in Saturated Fat, Cholesterol, and Sodium while being high in fiber, Vitamin E, Vitamin K, Vitamin B6, Potassium, Manganese, Thiamin, Riboflavin, Niacin, Folate, Pantothenic Acid and Magnesium. For more info, click here. Did I get any converts? Don't eat this if you aiming to gain weight coz as you read above, they are low in fat.

Sweet peppers are plump, bell-shaped vegetables featuring either three or four lobes. They usually range in size from 2 to 5 inches in diameter, and 2 to 6 inches in length. Inside the thick flesh is an inner cavity with edible bitter seeds and a white spongy core. Bell peppers are not 'hot'. They contain a recessive gene that eliminates capsaisin, the compound responsible for the 'hotness' found in other peppers. When sauted or grilled, they are sweet with a fruity flavor. Here I have sauted them for multiple uses.

You will need:

Bell Peppers-3, one of each color
Onion-1
Red Pepper Flakes-1/4 tsp (optional)
Garlic-1 clove
Olive oil-1-2 tsp
Cilantro- a handful
Lemon Juice-a dash
Salt to taste
Black Pepper-1/2 tsp
Grated Cheese-a handful

Preparation: Slice the peppers vertically along the edges so as to remove the central seed core. Slice them thin into equal size pieces. Slice the onion finely. Crush the garlic. Heat the oil in a skillet and add the garlic and red peppers. Add the sliced peppers and onions, salt and saute them while stirring all the while. Lower the heat to medium and cover for 2 minutes. Open, increase the heat and continue stirring. They should wilt and get cooked in about 5-7 minutes. The high heat is to evaporate the water that the peppers give out. Add lemon juice and pepper. Now they can be used as a topping for fajitas, quesadillas, or even burgers.

Fairly good flour tortillas are available in supermarkets almost everywhere. Select the ones which are 6 or 7 inches in diameter. Warm them up by on a skillet and wrap them in a cloth napkin to bring them to the table.

For assembling the fajitas: Lightly toast a tortilla on a skillet on both sides. Spread a tablespoon of the peppers on it. Add grilled strips of chicken or beef if so preferred. Sprinkle chopped cilantro, grated cheese and a spoon on sour cream. Roll or fold over..Done.